St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands is no longer one of the best kept secrets in the Caribbean, but because it’s a national park, it still remains pretty unspoiled. My family traveled to Cinnamon Bay for many years, so I decided to return with my boyfriend. Suddenly it felt like a romantic travel destination!
Landing in St. Thomas
There is something unforgettable about getting off the plane in the Virgin Islands. Maybe it’s the humid air mixed with rain on the tarmac, island flowers, and the heady feeling of white beaches and knowing that you’re leaving the grey dreariness of winter on the East Coast far, far behind. In the 1990s, the airport, which had been an old World War II hanger, was updated. But some things never change: we were promptly given a free rum punch. Now that’s hospitality!
We caught a cab from the airport into Charlotte Amalie, the main port, where we waited to board the forty-five-minute ferry to Cruz Bay in St. John. You can also take the Red Hook ferry, which is shorter, but less scenic. Once on St. John, we took a rather bumpy but very fun cab ride up a steep narrow drive, overlooking stunning turquoise bays with lush green vistas. We would rent a jeep later on.
Cinnamon Bay
At the campground you can rent a cottage or green canvas tent (I don’t recommend either) or opt for a bare site (which we did). We brought along our own tent and air mattress, as the canvas tents are old, stuffy, and rather musty. Also, the donkeys, spiders, and snails on the island seem more drawn to the canvas tents for some reason!
We spent the first day snorkeling at Cinnamon, where we saw angel fish, a large fifteen-foot sting ray (which we stayed far away from), and dramatic corals. What was once just a pavilion now has a laid-back restaurant and bar (t-shirts allowed) called the Lizard Tree. The service is super slow, but after a day of this, you tend to acclimate. Visitors come to play cards, Scrabble, listen to live bands, or relax under the fans. The small camp store is open until 8 p.m. and tends to run out of many things, but they always have ice and beer, so who can complain?
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