With only a month left in Kenya, I decided to step up the traveling, get out of Nairobi, and take another solo trip. On a whim, I booked a one-way train ticket from Nairobi-Mombasa (on the southeast coast), with the plan of flying back to Nairobi four days later. I had been warned about the train and its notorious reputation of breaking down for long hours, but I decided that it was worth it and was all part of the African adventure. So, I booked a first class ticket (the only recommended class for solo mzungu [white] travelers), which included a 2-person sleeping berth and dinner and breakfast served in the “silver-service” dinning car. I lucked out and had the berth all to myself, and my first impression of the train and accommodations: absolutely charming!
When the wheels started turning I had my head out the window having a very farewell-white-handkerchief moment, while we passed a very different scene outside. The train drove through the skirting slums of Nairobi, with the smell of burning garbage, tin shacks assembled out of scrap metal, children running along side the train asking for money and sweets, and families building their fires for the night ahead—a very eye opening scene in contrast to my charming first class ticket. The silver service dinning car was another experience, with waiters in tattered white suits serving the meal out of real silver dishes and chipped glasses. I suspect nothing has been updated since the train was in it heyday forty years ago. After a decent meal, I returned to my berth and curled up for the night, attempting to sleep amidst the rackety sounds of the train. Apparently, the train broke down in the middle of the night for 5 hours, but I think that this was the point that I finally fell asleep when it got quiet (a very positive side of breaking down!). After 17 hours on the train, I arrived in Mombasa, eager to check into my hotel, have a shower, and start exploring.
