Local and sustainable foods are becoming a highly touted mantra in America, with much of this interest coming from metropolitan centers—where 80 percent of the U.S. population lives. Urbanites seeking to reconnect with their food are meeting the farmers who grow their food at farmers markets, purchasing weekly farm shares through community supported agriculture and dining at restaurants that focus on local and seasonal delights. But getting to know farms and farmers outside the city isn’t the end all! Growing food within urban environments is another key aspect of a truly healthy and sustainable food system. Food grown in the city doesn’t have to travel far to urban markets, restaurants, and dinner tables, so it can use less energy and provide a wonderful educational experience close to home.
In addition, it’s also an important strategy for combating food insecurity—the lack of access to affordable, healthy, and culturally appropriate foods—in many cities. Numerous inner-city neighborhoods lack a single grocery store, but are crowded with liquor stores stocked with highly processed and overpriced packaged foods. These urban “food deserts,” which are disproportionately communities of color, may already face environmental justice issues such as high pollution levels, and health problems like asthma, caused by particulate pollution, are only exacerbated by poor diets. With no access to affordable nutritious food, residents in food deserts also face high rates of obesity and diabetes.
Urban gardens and farms can be oases in these deserts, providing nutrient rich food right where people need it. Animals can be part of the equation as well—raising chickens can provide enough eggs for a family, apiaries provide honey and valuable pollination services, and fishponds, and even milking goats are becoming more common in cities, providing meat protein and milk. Urban areas are not newbies to food production but are playing an important role across the globe—the United Nations estimates that 15 percent of the world’s food is grown in cities—and the practice is certainly not new to the United States. During World Wars I and II, the U.S. government encouraged city dwellers to grow some of their own food in “victory gardens,” to take pressure off of food supplies for the troops. Today, advocates of urban agriculture are redefining victory as local control over an economically sound and socially just method of food production. This summer a team of 200 volunteers planted a victory garden in front of San Francisco city hall as a part of Slow Food Nation. The temporary organic garden contained a variety of edible and native plants and serves as a prime example that growing food in the city is not only possible, but beautiful as well.
