This week’s Sopranos could not have been more at odds with this week’s menu. The episode felt sudden and rushed: when did Tony develop a fast and furious gambling addiction? When did things turn sour between Carmela and Tony? And how (un)believable is it that Hesh’s young wife died from a stroke (according to the HBO website)?
Lindsay’s menu, however, benefited from a slow, well-measured execution: ribs were marinated overnight, and then slow baked; succulent chicken wings spent hours simmering in a Sage and pancetta broth; anchovies were slowly browned to perfection.
Will the show slow down to catch up with the food?
Episode IV Menu
Bresaola Cigars
1 pound sliced Bresaola (air dried Italian meat, available at specialty stores)
1-1/2 cups watercress or arugula
4 ounces hard Parmesan
Olive oil
Lemon juice
Dress greens with a mix of olive oil and lemon juice. Shave parmesan with vegetable peeler. Assemble cigars by rolling greens and shaved cheese inside round of meat. Place seam side down on serving platter and sprinkle with lemon juice.
Fried Bocarones with Lemon Aioli
One garlic clove
1 teaspoon sea salt
One egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon mustard
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4–1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for frying
1/2 pound bocarones (vinegar or oil cured white anchovies, available at specialty stores)
1/4 cup flour
Sliced, toasted baguette
Mash clove of garlic with flat part of knife and mix with salt to make a paste. Whisk in egg yolk, mustard, and lemon juice until well combined. Slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Add pepper to taste. Refrigerate for at least an hour.
Coat non-stick pan with olive oil. Lightly dredge fish in flour and brown over medium-high heat.
Top toasted bread with a layer of aioli and one bocarone.
Pancetta and Sage Chicken Wings
I’d kill a thousand little chickens for these wings. So tasty … so, so tasty.
Ten garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon water
1-1/2 pound chicken wings
1/4 pound pancetta, chopped into small pieces
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