A Roman Kitchen: Letters from Italy

By: Susan Van Allen (View Profile)

“Look at these,” he said, spreading out zucchini flowers we were about to stuff, “If I met a beautiful woman, I’d bring her a bouquet of these.”

The Roman pastas on the menu reflect the age-old practicality of the locals. When shepherds in the surrounding hills wanted a quick delicious dinner, they lit a fire and mixed pasta with pecorino (cheese made from sheep’s milk) and guanciale (un-smoked bacon from pig’s jowls) to make Pasta alla Gricia. Carbonara was created in Rome during World War II, when chefs combined cheese and pasta with rations of bacon and eggs the American GIs brought in.

“I’ve lightened up the recipes,” Renato said. “These days, with elevators and cars, exercise isn’t part of daily life, so people can’t eat the heavy dishes the Romans used to.” Even though he slightly cuts down the amount of cheese in his pasta dishes and bakes stuffed zucchini flowers instead of frying them, rich flavors aren’t compromised.

Strepitoso! (Fantastic!),” my classmate Joanne exclaimed, as she tasted the fiori di zucca, just moments after Renato had pulled them from the oven. As I took a bite and the flavors of rich, warm cheese wrapped in a tender zucchini blossom burst in my mouth, I had to agree. In fact, strepitoso summed up everything we ate that day—simple food with subtle elegant flavors, that perfectly captures the authentic soul of Rome.

Visit EIS Tours for more information about cooking classes in Rome.

Photo of Chef Renato Astrologo, Renato e Luisa Trattoria, Rome, courtesy of author.

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